Janessa Daly-Rojas
May 9th, 2020
Baguettes : [Photo: Sammi Jane via Pinterest]
Bread and the French : a local study in Reims
Why are there so many boulangeries in one town? On one street even? Where are all those baguette wielding people going? What do they eat with all that bread? Do they ever get sick of baguettes? Apparently not: baguettes thrive in Reims and the rest of France, as a cultural tradition that attracts even newcomers, and possibly thanks to their law-enforced consistent taste and accessibility.
The origin of baguettes
Despite the popularity of this famous cylinder shaped bread, it isn’t totally clear where and when baguettes originated. In fact, the majority of the stories linked to the birth of the baguette are either theories or myths. Some believe that the baguette was created thanks to Napoleon Bonaparte. Bonaparte allegedly requested for his bread to be reshaped in order for it to fit in his soldiers’ pant legs in times of war. Another theory is that they came about during the creation of the Paris metro. Knives were forbidden on the construction site so breadmakers were asked to create a type of bread that didn’t require a knife to be shared. Notably, the majority of the stories surrounding the creation of the baguette are linked to reshaping and resizing a traditional bread shape to fit lifestyle and convenience. Although, there are no more wars, and the Parisian metro is now well developed, the convenience of the baguette is still appreciated in France, even in modern times. The French consume 320 baguettes per second.
Why so many baguettes?
For many people in Reims, unlike back home in Canada, fresh baguettes are a staple in households as they are cheap, easily accessible, and they compliment many dishes. After interviewing some pedestrians on the streets of Reims, they informed me that they bought baguettes out of habit. Many have been eating baguettes their whole lives and feel as though baguettes bring back warm memories from childhood which shows how deeply embedded baguettes are in French culture. People who were not originally from Reims or France at all, stated that they started buying baguettes to stick to the status quo : “I’m not from here, I wanted to taste a real French baguette (...) It’s a stereotype that people here live by, baguettes are everywhere.”, said one pedestrian.
There are a substantial amount boulangeries in Reims. Yet, due to demand, they are all able to thrive, despite the competition. Some are even open on Sundays which speaks volumes as the majority of businesses in Reims are closed on Sunday. It is a common practice across France to use Sunday as a day of rest - but not for the dedicated bread makers. Baguettes are also sold in grocery stores, but most locals prefer the boulangerie. Regular baguette buyers are often loyal to one specific boulangerie due to factors such as price, taste, variety, and staff.
Bread Law
The taste, versatility, freshness, and overall great quality of fresh baguettes, the exquisite “crunchy on the outside, soft on the inside” quality is due to the French bread law.
This is a law in France known as the “décret pain”. It ensures consistent quality of baguettes by stating they must be made in the location in which they are sold, they cannot be frozen or sold past the day they are made, nor can they contain any additives or preservatives to expand their lifetime. This means that the baguettes are always fresh. The French bread law also states that baguettes can only contain the following ingredients: wheat flour, water, salt and yeast. This guarantees consistency across the country. Unlike most countries that don’t have bread laws, France takes baguettes very seriously.
Boulangeries VS COVID-19
As the widespread coronavirus pandemic continues to run its course, many businesses and stores have been forced to close in an effort to reduce the spread of the virus. Globally, many “non-essential” businesses have been forced to close. Now, it is clearer than ever how important baguettes are in French culture. While the majority of France sleeps or works from home, many boulangeries are open for business and running as usual. On a governmental level, boulangeries are deemed an essential service. Sales have not seen a decline despite the recommendation to stay home.
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