All I want is to have that feeling. If you live in France, you are probably abundantly familiar with this feeling. It is the everyday joy that comes with holding a baguette in your hand while walking down the street, conveniently ripping off small pieces the end while you leisurely make your way to your next destination. Ironically, this is exactly the way I pictured myself on my year abroad in France, despite being diagnosed with celiac disease over six years ago. So far in Reims, I have had no luck in the gluten-free department, unless you count the crumbly, dry bread they sell at Monoprix that does not expire until 2023. Of course, there are worse things in this world than to be living in France and gluten-free, I know. But I would love, for once, to walk by a patisserie and not feel like I am missing out on a crucial part of the French experience.
"The only way to prevent short and long term effects is to abide by a strict, life-long, gluten-free diet."
Celiac disease is a chronic inflammatory autoimmune disorder triggered by the ingestion of gluten and is estimated to affect approximately 1% of the population in Europe and North America[1]. Gluten is the protein found in wheat, barley, and rhy. Although initial symptoms to the ingestion of gluten are short-lived reactions such as diarrhea, weight loss, abdominal pain, and anemia, the long term effects are very serious including small intestinal lymphoma, infertility, and osteoporosis. The only way to prevent short and long term effects is to abide by a strict, life-long, gluten-free diet. I came to France for the first time when I was sixteen, one year after being diagnosed with celiac disease. At the time, I was still trying to navigate being gluten-free in my own country, let alone somewhere completely foreign to me. Luckily my mom was on top of things, as moms typically are, and had done plenty of research on gluten-free food in Paris. She read raving reviews about a gluten-free patisserie called Helmut Newcake and although it was a seven kilometer walk away from our Airbnb, on that hot August morning, we decided it would be worth it. I remember the walk so vividly, it felt like we were trying to walk to Spain, but the promise of gluten-free delicacies kept our feet moving forward. You can imagine our disappointment when we finally made it to Helmut Newcake and saw that they were closed for the entire month for holidays.
So here I am, almost exactly four years later, living in France for my third year of university on an exchange with Sciences Po and I will stop at nothing to make it to Helmut Newcake. I asked two friends if they wanted to venture with me to Paris for this very special occasion and they were keen to accompany me for this experience of what I had been missing out on in France. We arrived in Paris on the morning of September 23rd, avoided all the protests happening that day, and lined up in the queue at Helmut Newcake. It is a very quaint and typical French patisserie, with a few spots outside to sit for a meal. The inside is bright and welcoming, with all the gluten-free goodness stunningly displayed as in any “normal” patisserie. I was thrilled by the abundant options that lay before me.
The warm and friendly owner, Gabriel has been gluten intolerant for over twelve years now and he believes that the gluten-free scene in France is improving but that there is still a long way to go. He believes French people lack awareness and education and that they tend to be more careless when it comes to ensuring a gluten-free dining experience. Moreover, he speculated that the unpopularity of the gluten-free diet in France stems from the fact that people are not being tested as much for celiac disease or gluten intolerance, possibly because many ‘gluteneous’ foods are central to French culture. A majority of customers were in fact English speaking with the exception of a few clearly regular customers. Occasionally people who are not gluten-free will stumble into the shop and be shocked and confused by the prices, not knowing that gluten-free food tends to be more expensive because of the ingredients needed.
"After waiting for so long to go to Helmut Newcake, it exceeded my expectations."
I ordered a gluten free BLT Avocado sandwich; a lactose-free éclair noisette (Gabriel’s personal favorite at the shop), a raspberry tartelette; and a pain au chocolat. I would not only recommend Helmut Newcake to people with celiac disease, gluten intolerance, or gluten sensitivity, but to anyone in Paris who loves baked goods or who is looking for a great brunch or lunch spot. After waiting for so long to go to Helmut Newcake, it exceeded my expectations. Gabriel has created a truly authentic French dining experience and for his clients, Helmut Newcake is a special place where they can feel accepted and included in this integral part of French culture.
Claire Feasby
More Information:
Helmut Newcake opened in Paris in 2011 and was the first patisserie to offer 100% gluten-free baked goods. Due to their successes and rise in popularity, they now have two shops open: Helmut Newcake Madeleine and Helmut Newcake Saint-Honoré.
Website: http://www.helmutnewcake.com/
Instagram: @helmutnewcake
Facebook: @HelmutNewcake
[1] Pouchot, Jacques. “Validation of a French Version of the Quality of Life “Celiac Disease Questionnaire.” May 2014, https://doi.org/10.1371/journal.pone.0096346.
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